Water Wise Gardening for the Pacific Northwest

by Rod Smith
Oregon Certified Nursery Professional

© 2006-2014 Rodney A. Smith
All rights reserved.
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The Pacific Northwest has an abundance of rain during the winter, but summers are usually dry when plants need the most water. Daily water usage almost doubles during the summer months. The goal of Water Wise Gardening is to conserve water by using it efficiently. But, it is not necessary to go the extreme of planting only plants that never need watering.

The main components of Water Wise Gardening are: choosing plants which need less than average water, grouping plants according to water needs, preparing the soil properly to encourage a large root system to gather water, and conserving water with wise irrigation and mulch.

Since lawns use the most water, they offer the greatest water savings. Replacing part of the lawn with ground covers and hardscapes will reduce water usage accordingly. Perennial Ryegrass and Fescue require much less water than Bentgrass or Bluegrass. A mowing height of 2.5 to 3.5 inches in the summer reduces water needs by keeping the soil cooler. The extra grass blade surface also keeps the lawn greener with less water and fertilizer. Lawns require about an inch of water each week when temperatures stay below 80 degrees, or 1.5 inches above 85 degrees. Applying a half inch of water two or three times a week is much better than a small amount every day. For more information on lawns, see Lawn Care.

Eco-Lawn

Eco-Lawns can save even more water. Most are a mixture of grasses, clovers, and flowering plants, such as, English Daisies, Roman Chamomile, Sweet Allysum and Yarrow. Eco-Lawn seed mixes are available locally from Pro Time Lawn Seed. They will stay green all summer with only 1.5 inches of water once a month. They can be mowed three to five inches high every three weeks, or left un-mowed. However, they are not the same as a mowed lawn, and many people rip them out after a few years and plant conventional lawns.

Landscape plants which need less water usually fall into two groups: plants from arid climates and dry summer plants. Arid plants need less water year round, and include cactus, succulents, junipers, pines and some grasses. Dry summer plants grow and flower in the fall, winter and spring and need little water during the summer. These include fall and spring flowering bulbs, Mediterranean heather, brooms and native plants, such as Oregon grape and flowering currant.

There are a few fruits that require less water. Apricots, Figs, Grapes, Pineapple Guavas, and Pomegranates require little additional watering once they are established. The other fruits and vegetables require regular watering through the summer. Some vegetables can get by with less water because they can be planted in the spring or fall when there is natural rainfall. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, peas and lettuce will grow well in cool weather. They can be planted as early as March. All but peas and lettuce can be planted as late as September. The cooler weather also encourages them to grow without going to seed (bolting).

By grouping plants according to water needs, it is possible to use the minimum amount of water. Much water is wasted when plant that needs a lot of water is planted in with plants that do not need much water. Providing enough water for some high water need plants may kill some surrounding low water plants from too much water. If medium to high water need plants are included in a landscape, they should be grouped into areas where they can be watered separately. This website includes descriptions of about 900 trees, shrubs, vines, perennials and Oregon natives. Their water needs are rated Low, Medium or High. There is also a cross reference to look of plants by common names and find the scientific name.

Plants will use water much more efficiently if they have a deep root system. They can go longer without needing to be watered since they can draw water from a larger volume of soil. Heavy clay soil prevents roots from growing deep because of a lack of oxygen deep in the soil. Properly preparing the soil makes more improvement in growth and plant health than any other one thing. The ideal soil would contain roughly equal amounts of sand, silt, clay (which is called loam) and organic matter, with good aeration and drainage at least one foot deep. This allows the soil to soak up natural rainfall and allows roots to grow deep and wide so they can use all of the available moisture. Soils in the Portland area may by sandy loam near rivers, but Washington County is all heavy clay. Adding compost to sandy loam soil makes it hold more water and nutrients. For clay, soil amendments, such as compost, and sand, pumice or Profile Soil Conditioner, should be added to the soil. Potting soil which contains sand or pumice is a good soil amendment if a small amount is needed. Amendments should be dug or tilled into the top foot of soil to improve both aeration and drainage. For more information on soil, see Improving Soil.

Proper watering is necessary to encourage deep roots. Watering every day produces a shallow root system. This can cause tree roots to protrude above the lawn. Instead, water deeply to wet the entire root zone, then let the soil dry out before watering again. Deep watering flushes stale air from the soil. Then, fresh air and oxygen are drawn deeper into the soil as it dries to encourage deeper roots. It also discourages soil diseases from constantly soggy soil. Both clay soil and sandy loam require a half inch to wet the root zone of lawns and annuals, and an inch of water to wet the root zone of trees and shrubs.

For most plants, the top inch of soil should somewhat dry before it is watered again. This may take two days or two weeks, depending on the soil, the weather and the number and size of plants. A screwdriver with a six inch long shaft is a good tool to check soil moisture on lawns, because it will indicate soil moisture deep in the root zone. If it can easily be pushed all the way in to the handle, then the soil is wetter than it needs to be. If it takes quite a bit of pressure to push it in most of the way, that is the right amount of soil moisture. If it can only be pushed in two inches, then the soil needs more water. A plant water meter is an even more accurate way to tell when trees and shrubs need watering again, because it can measure soil moisture deeper.

Several simple methods can be used to conserve water. A hose shut off on the end of a hose can save quite a bit of water. A watering wand will put water on the soil, not on leaves where it might encourage diseases. A water timer will automatically shut off hose end sprinklers. Battery powered water timers can turn the water on and off automatically.

A well designed irrigation system can end up saving water if it applies the water uniformly in the right amount. Water sensors can be added to irrigation controllers to automatically adjust watering. Rainfall sensors shut off the irrigation until rainwater has evaporated from the collector. Soil moisture sensors are even more accurate. With these sensors, irrigation controllers are set to run everyday, but the irrigation is skipped until the soil actually needs water.

Run sprinklers at sunrise when the air is cool and there is less wind. Spread tuna cans around the yard to see how much water is being applied. Adjust or replace sprinkler heads so water is applied evenly. Never apply more than one inch of water at a time to trees and shrubs, or more than a half-inch on lawns and annuals.

Drip irrigation is the most efficient way to water. It places water directly onto the soil so it does not evaporate into the air. It can apply different amounts of water to different areas according to the number of emitters. Also, it does not waste water on areas where only weeds grow. Drip irrigation systems are easy to design and install. Any one that is handy at all can set up one. The drip system can be connected to a hose bib, or underground sprinkler systems can be converted to drip. Normally the inch drip line is snaked through the landscape and emitters are inserted directly into the inch drip line, or connected by a short length of inch line. The drip lines can be buried but the emitters should be visible so they can be checked to see that they are not clogged.

Covering soil with mulch conserves water four ways. Mulch prevents the soil surface from being compacted by rainfall. Raindrops are travelling about 120 miles per hour when they hit the ground, and they can pack the soil surface into a hard crust that does not absorb water. Mulch absorbs water and holds it until it can soak in instead of running off. Mulch keeps soil cooler so water does not evaporate as fast. Mulch reduces weeds, which can use quite a bit of water. Two or three inches of mulch is very effective, but do not cover lower branches or pile mulch more than an inch deep around stems, because diseases might develop.

Bark dust, compost, leaves, even newspaper can be used as mulch. But, decorative rock may increase water use because it transmits heat to the soil and reflects heat onto the plants. Black plastic does not work well as mulch because it does not let air or water soak in, but landscape fabric allows both water and air to move into the soil. Landscape fabric will also prevent perennial weeds from pushing up from the soil, although it does not prevent weed seedlings from growing roots down through the fabric.

Mulching is also an effective way to conserve water in vegetable gardens. Newly planted seeds can be watered, then covered with damp newspaper. They will not need to be watered again until the seedlings emerge. Just be sure to remove the paper immediately when seedlings emerge so they do not overheat. Mulch also prevents a crust from forming on the surface of the soil, which hinders seedling emergence. Plants planted close together act like a mulch by shading the soil and reducing weeds.

Water Wise Gardening will lower your water bill as well as increase the growth and yields of fruits and vegetables, and improve the appearance of your landscape. It just makes good sense.

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Common and Scientific Names of Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Perennials & Oregon Natives
Spring Perennial Color| Summer Perennial Color| Fall Perennial Color| Winter and All Year Perennial Color| All Perennials in Alphabetical Order
Spring Shrub Color| Summer Shrub Color| Fall Shrub Color| Winter Shrub Color| All Year Shrubs| All Shrubs in Alphabetical Order
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Spring and Summer Vine Color| Fall and Winter Vine Color and All Year Vines| All Vines in Alphabetical Order

More information can be found on my webpages:
Annuals, Biennials, Perennials and Bulbs | Edible Landscaping | Fall Planting | Fruit Tree Tips
Herbs for the Kitchen and Landscape | House Plants | Improving Soil | Lacebug Control
Landscape Design | Lawn Care | Oregon Invasive Plants | Oregon Native Landscape Plants
Pest Control | Plant Nutrients | Plant Propagation | Planting a Vegetable Garden
Planting in Clay Soil | Pruning for Shade, Flowers and Fruit | Remove Trees Roots and All
Rod's Garden Pruning | Roses | Seasonal Pruning Guide
Trees and Shrubs in the Landscape | Water Wise Gardening | Winter Plant Protection

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